Barcelona mixes cosmopolitan and charismatic perfectly while staying family friendly with its wide boulevards, leafy plazas and top notch attractions. This Catalan city is definitely more expensive than its Spanish cousins but if you have a little wanderer with you, its family friendly attitude and modern conveniences make up for extra costs.
Scroll further down to see what we did!
En route to Barcelona our excitement was tangible, buzzing within us because although Josh had visited the magnificent city twice before we were about to see it in a whole new light. Seeing the home of our close friends Juan and Cristina and having the opportunity to meet their wonderful families only added to the excitement as we planned to see one of Spain's most iconic cities. To describe Barcelona as a mere city would be selling it short as it is a sprawling metropolis of 1.6 million people all contributing to it's cultural, tourist and economic status making it one of the most important major cities in the world. Simply put, it has a presence that differentiates it from the rest of Spain. This makes sense if you understand the autonomous nature of Catalonia, a distinct region in Spain that has a sentiment ranging from wanting more autonomy to fierce protesters desiring complete independence from Spain.
We were completely spoiled by Juan and Cristina's families and receiving that kind of generosity and welcome was so heartwarming. Not only were we picked up at the airport with a provided car seat and given homemade food for Thalia, we were unbelievably provided with Flavio's flat (Juan's brother) to stay in for eight nights! The flat was the nicest we had stayed in our entire trip and was located in Poblano, a really cool neighborhood just a 30 minute walk from the famous Sagrada Familia. Here we had the best food we had eaten in all of Spain and the foodies in us rejoiced at our good luck. It was such a treat to stay in such a lovely place and we really made ourselves at home especially as it was naturally very baby proof!
Touring around Barcelona was really easy with the metro and we chose to buy a 10 ticket pass to be more economical. We were very cautious with our belonging as it is a top pickpocket destination but we did not encounter any trouble. Since we arrived late in the day our first day we only had enough gumption to see an easy attraction and we chose to see the Font Magica, a large water fountain built in 1929 that was restored and provides a fun show every half hour at night starting at 7pm. The National Palace set behind the fountain show was statuesque and only added to the ambience. It was a simple attraction but we really enjoyed the lights and music and would recommend seeing it if you have enough time. Thalia seemed to enjoy the excitement too and it was worth keeping her up late to enjoy.
With so much anticipation surrounding the famous Sagrada Familia we decided to go our first full day in Spain. Josh had prepared me to reduce my expectations since he had seen it twice before and both times it was under heavy construction so it was an ethereal experience to walk in and have my breath taken away. Since 1883, the architecture of this enormous church was undertaken by Antoni Gaudi, a famous Catalonian architect whom you quickly become familiar with once visiting Barcelona as many of the attractions feature his surreal talent. The Basilica is dedicated to the Holy Family which is displayed with a show of spectacular towers, the largest of which dedicated to Jesus specifically is still under construction. Not even the smallest detail is overlooked with the sculptures outlining each façade carved with exquisite detail and the balance of man and nature prominent as a theme. Paying extra for the audio guide was a must as it would be impossible to appreciate each particular element like the tortoise holding up one of the towers versus the turtle holding up another to represent East versus West. This theme held true within the Basilica as your first impression walking in is one of light and openness, mimicking the feel of walking through a forest just as Gaudi intended. The beauty of the stained glass alone would be enough to justify the steep entrance fee without the intriguing use of differing materials and modern symbolism. After enjoying Cathedrals that were thousands of years old with their Gothic or Baroque architecture in Seville and Granada, it was such a treat to a experience a modern Basilica with it's nature theme; colors exploding in every corner and the vast height drawing the eye upward to admire each disciple's tribute. Words are lacking to describe the feeling one has when seeing the Sagrada Familia and it will be an incredible sight to behold when it is finally completed.
Cost: € 7.50 per person- kids under 6 free.
Getting there:
Park Güell is off Carrer d'Olot in Barcelona and has three entrances: one on Carrer de Larrard (main entrance), one at Carretera del Carmel, nº 23, where there is also the coach park for tourist coaches, and a third on Passatge de Sant Josep de la Muntanya, which you get to by going up an escalator.
We entered via the Sant Josep entrance which had many shops on the outside to buy water and snacks which was cheaper than inside.
Owned originally by Josep Batlló, a wealthy aristocrat who commissioned Gaudi to design it in 1904 its changed hands (and purposes, once an office building) multiple times and now is owned by the Bernat Family, a wealthy insurance family. Its modern Gaudi at its finest with almost no straight lines and broken ceramic tile mosaics at every twist and turn. The roof is arched and was likened to the back of a dragon and every window is awkwardly oval or misshapen for your Gaudi viewing pleasure. We utilized the audio/video tour which was included in the price and found it really enhanced the experienced. Casa Batllo employs an augmented reality app where with a lens point system you can visually see what a room would have looked like in 1904 when it was first on the scene. By pointing the handheld screen to any part of the room your eyes are gifted with era furniture as well as digitally animated overtones of animals and bones that Guadi had in mind when designing this gem.
Very stunning but not totally baby friendly. There were no change tables and washrooms were very small. We ended up changing Thalia's diapers on the bench near the entrance and much of the interior can feel a little constricted depending of course on the time of day you visit. (squeezing up and down stairs, at some points stuck in a cattle line). Though we arrived early afternoon and found the crowds lessened closer to evening.
Though its a revel to our eyes and some of the mosaics may interest a baby or toddler for a while we didn't feel it was one of those attractions that had "a bit of everything for the family". Definitely worth a visit but geared more towards an adult or older child's eye.
We found that to visit it well and get your money's worth required about 2 hours and fortunately Thalia slept for a little over half otherwise we did notice she started to get a little fussy wanting some play time. Excellent experience but plan with baby naps in mind!
Cost: €24.00 per person - kids under 7 free
Getting there:
Walking: Casa Batllo can easily be accessed on foot from Las Ramblas depending on which end you are at. At the top of La Rambla walk across Catalunya square to Passeig de Gràcia and continue walking up until you come to Casa Batlló at No. 43 Passeig de Gràcia, this should take roughly 45 minutes.
Metro: If your feeling like a walking break hop on the Metro Green Line L3 and get off at
Calle Aragó-Rambla Catalunya. Casa Batlló is only a 30 seconds walk from the metro stop IF you take the correct metro exit. Look for the exit called: Calle Aragó-Rambla Catalunya when you are leaving the metro.
Bus: Passeig de Gràcia / Aragó: 7, 22, 24, V15
Being my third visit to this stunning architectural feat, I admit it was my most awe inspiring. With the interior complete, this Spanish Late Gothic, Catalan Modernist and Art Nouveau mix delivers a space-ship-crashed-into-a-cathedral impression in the most mesmerizing way! I could go on about its history and details but there are millions of better trained architectural writers who can indulge you with a simple google search. What I will say is, it is worth the crowds and the admission fee, and if you have already had the pleasure of visiting before, do it again if its been longer than 5 years!
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| Visiting our friend Margas Bar! |
With so much anticipation surrounding the famous Sagrada Familia we decided to go our first full day in Spain. Josh had prepared me to reduce my expectations since he had seen it twice before and both times it was under heavy construction so it was an ethereal experience to walk in and have my breath taken away. Since 1883, the architecture of this enormous church was undertaken by Antoni Gaudi, a famous Catalonian architect whom you quickly become familiar with once visiting Barcelona as many of the attractions feature his surreal talent. The Basilica is dedicated to the Holy Family which is displayed with a show of spectacular towers, the largest of which dedicated to Jesus specifically is still under construction. Not even the smallest detail is overlooked with the sculptures outlining each façade carved with exquisite detail and the balance of man and nature prominent as a theme. Paying extra for the audio guide was a must as it would be impossible to appreciate each particular element like the tortoise holding up one of the towers versus the turtle holding up another to represent East versus West. This theme held true within the Basilica as your first impression walking in is one of light and openness, mimicking the feel of walking through a forest just as Gaudi intended. The beauty of the stained glass alone would be enough to justify the steep entrance fee without the intriguing use of differing materials and modern symbolism. After enjoying Cathedrals that were thousands of years old with their Gothic or Baroque architecture in Seville and Granada, it was such a treat to a experience a modern Basilica with it's nature theme; colors exploding in every corner and the vast height drawing the eye upward to admire each disciple's tribute. Words are lacking to describe the feeling one has when seeing the Sagrada Familia and it will be an incredible sight to behold when it is finally completed.
Here is what we did with our little wanderer:
1) Park Güell
A number one staple of any visit to Barcelona to indulge in more of the Gaudimania that has defined the city. Additionally, it scores high points for little wanderers with its expansive park and trails. A picnic paradise!
Admittedly its my 3rd visit to this wonderful park and though it retains its magnificence, there are other Gaudi greats that I feel impressed me more with regards to architecture (Caso Batllo), but the mix of the Gaudi brick and mortar with a back splash of a leafy green park setting is absolutely on point for a beautiful sunny day with baby. Arrive early to avoid crowds and bring a picnic as many people don't indulge in the walking trails that weave you to your own little picnic oasis. We let Thalia crawl around the grass and we ate snacks in the sun. (also lots of space to change diapers and enough walking trails to allow Thalia to nap for 90 min!))
Cost: € 7.50 per person- kids under 6 free.
Getting there:
Park Güell is off Carrer d'Olot in Barcelona and has three entrances: one on Carrer de Larrard (main entrance), one at Carretera del Carmel, nº 23, where there is also the coach park for tourist coaches, and a third on Passatge de Sant Josep de la Muntanya, which you get to by going up an escalator.
We entered via the Sant Josep entrance which had many shops on the outside to buy water and snacks which was cheaper than inside.
Metro: Take the Metro Green Line 3 to the Lessop stop. Walk down Passatge de Sant Josep de la Muntanya for about 15 minutes to the escalators.
2) Casa Batllo
This privately owned masterpiece packs a Gaudi punch in pure design, color and price!
Though it took us a little humming and hawing before we mentally agreed to the steep €24 per person entrance fee. We did find it exceeded our expectations. The local name for the building is Casa del Ossos (House of Bones) as particularly the exterior has an skeletal/organic quality as does parts of the interior (the loft).Owned originally by Josep Batlló, a wealthy aristocrat who commissioned Gaudi to design it in 1904 its changed hands (and purposes, once an office building) multiple times and now is owned by the Bernat Family, a wealthy insurance family. Its modern Gaudi at its finest with almost no straight lines and broken ceramic tile mosaics at every twist and turn. The roof is arched and was likened to the back of a dragon and every window is awkwardly oval or misshapen for your Gaudi viewing pleasure. We utilized the audio/video tour which was included in the price and found it really enhanced the experienced. Casa Batllo employs an augmented reality app where with a lens point system you can visually see what a room would have looked like in 1904 when it was first on the scene. By pointing the handheld screen to any part of the room your eyes are gifted with era furniture as well as digitally animated overtones of animals and bones that Guadi had in mind when designing this gem.
Very stunning but not totally baby friendly. There were no change tables and washrooms were very small. We ended up changing Thalia's diapers on the bench near the entrance and much of the interior can feel a little constricted depending of course on the time of day you visit. (squeezing up and down stairs, at some points stuck in a cattle line). Though we arrived early afternoon and found the crowds lessened closer to evening.
Though its a revel to our eyes and some of the mosaics may interest a baby or toddler for a while we didn't feel it was one of those attractions that had "a bit of everything for the family". Definitely worth a visit but geared more towards an adult or older child's eye.
We found that to visit it well and get your money's worth required about 2 hours and fortunately Thalia slept for a little over half otherwise we did notice she started to get a little fussy wanting some play time. Excellent experience but plan with baby naps in mind!
Cost: €24.00 per person - kids under 7 free
Getting there:
Walking: Casa Batllo can easily be accessed on foot from Las Ramblas depending on which end you are at. At the top of La Rambla walk across Catalunya square to Passeig de Gràcia and continue walking up until you come to Casa Batlló at No. 43 Passeig de Gràcia, this should take roughly 45 minutes.
Metro: If your feeling like a walking break hop on the Metro Green Line L3 and get off at
Calle Aragó-Rambla Catalunya. Casa Batlló is only a 30 seconds walk from the metro stop IF you take the correct metro exit. Look for the exit called: Calle Aragó-Rambla Catalunya when you are leaving the metro.
Bus: Passeig de Gràcia / Aragó: 7, 22, 24, V15
3) Bunker Del Carmel (Turó de la Rovira Hill)
If you can get off the beaten path in Barcelona for some Gaudi relief and a break from admission fees this is the place to do it. A city hike like no other with fresh air, stunning views, a deep dramatic history and a chance to hang with local Catalans.
The Bunkers Del Carmel were originally constructed during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) to protect Catalans from the Italian and German fascists who were fighting alongside Franco. The hill was situated high enough (262 M) that the Catalans were able to see enemy aircraft arriving and do their best to use gun batteries to at the very least disrupt the German and Italian attackers.
Nevertheless one thousand Catalans lost their lives from these raids where the Germans and Italians utilized "carpet bombings" for the very first time.
After 1940 it slowly became a shanty town known as Els Canons where by 1950 eventually 600 inhabitants lived in roughly 110 huts on the side of the hill. By 1990 it had full city utilities and had undergone a gentrification to which it now has become a fav for Catalans and tourists alike to indulge in an outdoor break from the hustle and bustle. Hence the nickname "Barcelona's Balcony".
Its a nice walk uphill, albeit a little steep at parts for hauling a little one so definitely bring a baby carrier (no stroller and is not wheelchair accessible) with the bus dropping you off at the base (number V17) its only 10 minutes up hill or from the Metro stop where its is 30 minutes. We opted for the Metro to have a longer more experiential walk up. Definitely worth it!
There are 360 views and ample places to picnic so bring some tapas and plenty of water and milk for your little wanderer as there are limited items available at the top, especially if you are there in the summer!!
We didn't do the walk up at sunset but were told the sunsets are breathtaking.
Its a nice walk uphill, albeit a little steep at parts for hauling a little one so definitely bring a baby carrier (no stroller and is not wheelchair accessible) with the bus dropping you off at the base (number V17) its only 10 minutes up hill or from the Metro stop where its is 30 minutes. We opted for the Metro to have a longer more experiential walk up. Definitely worth it!
There are 360 views and ample places to picnic so bring some tapas and plenty of water and milk for your little wanderer as there are limited items available at the top, especially if you are there in the summer!!
We didn't do the walk up at sunset but were told the sunsets are breathtaking.
Getting There:
Bus: Take bus V17 from the center/Gracia to last stop (Pl Mitja Lluna), its a 10 min walk up from here.
Metro: Take the L4 yellow line to Guinardo and then walk 30 min uphill.
4) La Sagrada Familia
This iconic Antoni Gaudi structure never disappoints. With its complex and lengthy design (going strong since 1882) even a return a few years later can bring a fresh new experience for visitors as more and more of Gaudi's details are constructed year by year to amaze and reward (it is after all built by ticket buyers!).
Being my third visit to this stunning architectural feat, I admit it was my most awe inspiring. With the interior complete, this Spanish Late Gothic, Catalan Modernist and Art Nouveau mix delivers a space-ship-crashed-into-a-cathedral impression in the most mesmerizing way! I could go on about its history and details but there are millions of better trained architectural writers who can indulge you with a simple google search. What I will say is, it is worth the crowds and the admission fee, and if you have already had the pleasure of visiting before, do it again if its been longer than 5 years!
As you would expect, arrive early to avoid the after-brunch crowd. There are many shops around for water and any needs your little ones may have. The lighting on the inside is artistic and diverse and our little one was quite taken it therefore behaving quite well. We literally did not hear a peep out of her for an hour as she was captivated by the Sagrada Familia's sheer size, lighting and ethereal stained glass windows. Plain and simple, its a don't miss!
Reserve 1.5 hours minimum to really experience this delight. And if you can check it our at night also, the exterior has a magnificent glow.
Admission: €15.00 for adults, children under 11 free.
Towers: €7.00 for adults, kids free.
Note: The tower in my opinion wasn't a must see, its a little over-rated and there are better views having a drink at one of Barcelona's roof top bars. Tip: Check out the Hotel Grand Central Roof Top Bar! Great Views!
Note: The tower in my opinion wasn't a must see, its a little over-rated and there are better views having a drink at one of Barcelona's roof top bars. Tip: Check out the Hotel Grand Central Roof Top Bar! Great Views!
Getting There:
Metro: Sagrada Familia is served by the Sagrada Familia Metro stop (purple line L2 and blue line L5).
Bus: The area is served by buses 19, 33, 34, 43, 44, 50, 51, B20, and B24.
5) Magic Fountain of Montjuïc
This is one of those we-just-got-here-what-should-we-do sort of activities that our little wanderer really enjoyed also. Lights! Music! Water! And its free!
If you just rolled into town and are looking for an evening activity its an easy to get to attraction that will dazzle your little one for quite a while. With over 50 different hues of color spraying before your eyes the fountains water acrobats are masterfully choreographed to a stellar line up of musical charm!
As we approached the fountain the energy of the music, lights, water and people was truly a "Welcome to Barcelona" for the whole family.
The fountain was built in 1929 for the Barcelona International Exposition as a wow factor and did well to impress. It stands in front of the majestic Catalan Palace and with its fun and upbeat music repertoire which includes Star Wars and Queen anthems, we all got our groove on.
There are snacks to be had with vendors and shops dotting the encompassing streets and your little wanderer should be impressed with the lights, music and water that make the night sky magical.
Getting There:
Walk: If your legs need some movement the walk is roughly 30 minutes from the northern most end of La Rambla (Plaça Catalunya). Just walk straight up
Gran Via until you reach Plaça Espanya. The magic fountain is then only a
5 minute walk down Avenida Maria Cristina from Plaça Espanya.
Metro: Depending on where you are take L3 (green) or L1 (red) and get off at the Espanya stop. Its 5 minutes up Avenida Maria Cristina from there.
6) Hospital de Sant Pau
This stunning landmark made up of multiple edifices was an actual hospital until 2009 (my good friend Cristina was actually born here!). The grounds are surprisingly tranquil with few tourists to impede your experience.
Since it just opened as a cultural center and attraction in 2014 it is yet to fully bloom under the large shadow cast by the Gaudi works. However make no mistake, this architectural gem designed by Lluis Domenech i Montaner is a wonder to the eyes and a great place for your little wanderer to explore.
With its Catalan Modern and a Art Nouveau vibe (think a little bit of Gaudi) and its history as a hospital it retains a more functional and practical look while still offering design wonders such as dazzling ceramic tiled ceilings (dragons and all!) and exteriors roofs as well as an abundance of stained glass representations majestic winding stairways.
Not all buildings are open to the public as part of the hospital is still in use for a blood and tissue clinic. There are 4 main buildings that are accessible and the grounds are definitely nice for a stroll or picnic.
Allow 1.5 - 2 hours to enjoy it. there are baby changing facilities in the bathroom in the main administration building. We did not find any cafes on site but at the intersection in front of the gates there were many shops and cafes. This is a low-impact attraction so it is a nice break from the tourist trail crowds.
Admission fee: Self-guided visit: 14 € Guided visit: 19 €
Kids under 12 free.
Getting There:
Metro: Take L5 and get off at Sant Pau / Dos de Maig Or
Bus: H8, 19, 20, 45, 47, 50, 51, 92, 117, 192
