Selcuk and Pamukkale (by Niki)

We woke up excited to hit the road and begin a new adventure. We were headed to Pamukkale which is about a three hour bus ride away from the coast but I am sure it will be worth the trip! It is famous for its incredible travertines or "terraces" as they are sometimes known as and also the ruins of Hieropolis.

We easily rode into Selcuk and decided that because we had missed it during our time at Ephesus, we would stop at St. John's Basilica and I'm glad we did. Historians believe that St. John, the most favored disciple by Jesus, was entrusted with the care of the Virgin Mary and together they came to Ephesus. This is where John wrote his gospel and started preaching. He died around the age of 100 and was laid to rest on a hill. In the 4th century AD, a small church was built around his tomb and in the 6th century AD a much larger one was built to honor him more grandly. You can see the blending of each church in the ruins if you have a good eye. Were it still standing today, it would be the 7th largest church in the world! The ruins were amazing to see and it feels really neat to bear witness to history that is so important to so many.

Afterwards, we wandered to the otogar (bus station) and discovered that we missed the last bus and the next one wasn't leaving until late afternoon. We adjusted our itinerary (now needing two nights in Pamukkale which will be nice anyway!), and went for a bite to eat. Although we weren't searching for it, we had a stroke of good luck and found the place I wanted to go to: Mehmet and Alibaba Kebab House. I only mention it by name because it is that extraordinary! To start, the food is plentiful and delicious. We were served complimentary tea, a basket of bread with dips, our meals of kebabs with rice and salad, a plate of French fries, ayran drinks (delicious yogurt drink) and a large bottle of water all for the price of $10! But that isn't really what made it special. The men that run the place are so hospitable they are the very essence of Turkish hospitality themselves!

Mehmet discovered that we are going to Gorome to see the fairy chimneys and not only might he be there at the same time, he offered us advice and the name of a friend who will give us a cheaper deal on taking a hot air balloon up. He even drew us a map of the area and described the things we might want to do there. Their restaurant is highly advertised in Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor and this was one of those rare moments when something really lives up to all the hype.

We enjoyed watching a group of men who had shoe shine equipment try endlessly to get clients! For about an hour we watched these short, stout men jump off their little stools, grab their equipment and run after every tourist on the street. What was so charming was how they handled every rejection, with a big, goofy smile on their face. They would shrug and laugh at each other's antics and when they noticed us watching, they would shrug and smile at us too. They had such a camaraderie between them and by the end, we were rooting along with them!

Seeing as we had extra time, we were able to go to Isa Bey, which is a little mosque we wanted to see. This is the first mosque either of us had seen and it was lovely in its architecture. It was built in 1375 but most of it was demolished in an earthquake and was not restored until the 1900s. One minaret is still in tact and it is beautiful to look at from afar. This must be an incredible place to worship and it is still in use today.

Being in an country with a large Islamic presence for the first time has been an enlightening experience for me. Turkey is a wonderful way to explore and experience the Muslim religion and learn more about their faith. We met a tour guide on the bus that thought the Western world doesn't visit Turkey as much as other countries because we are misinformed about Turkey being under Sharia law. This is not the case at all: Turkey is one of the only democratic Muslim countries and religion and state are separate. This is a vital concept for the people and something that they are proud of. Although a large percentage of women are covered up and use head scarves, it is perfectly fine to dress as usual however I do think it is unnecessary when I see some tourists bare a little too much.

During the bus ride to Pamukkale, I was hypnotized by the scenery going by and I really enjoyed trying to spot the minarets that would hint that a mosque would come into view shortly. They are spectacular to look at, and although most have the characteristic features of the large dome and a minaret, they vary greatly in designs, size, and colors. I even saw a minaret with disco lights on it!

The scenery was beautiful with lush fields and rugged mountains in the background. We were informed today that agriculture is a big industry here and you can see all the farms (in particular fruit farms) as well as people and dogs, joined in a team effort, herding sheep. Through the towns I noticed that most homes had solar panels on top and although I don't know anything about it, that seems pretty resourceful! Women carrying babies on their backs, old men gathered competitively to play backgammon and drink tea, and children playing soccer were the repetitive views that made me smile. The bus trip went by in no time.

Now that we are in Pamukkale we are already charmed! The hotel we found has gorgeous quaint rooms at a shockingly good price (he asks that we keep this a secret ;) ) and has the nicest host we have met yet! He insisted we come immediately for tea (there's that infamous hospitality again) and we stayed for the amazing home cooked meal prepared by his wife. Even when we try to clear up, he says "drink more tea, you can pay later." Like I said, we are already charmed and can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.