In the morning we took on the Topkapi Palace which was an impressive palace built in the 15th century and housed multiple sultans and their families until the 19th century. The palace itself was massive and spectacular in it splendor with gorgeous tiles lining every ceiling and wall and vaulted ceilings with domes. My favorite part was visiting the Harem, which could have four legitimate wives and up to 300 concubines living there. I can just imagine the female rivalry as whomever shared the sultans bed could become Queen Mother and yield a lot of power. It sounds like something out of a historical fiction but you can really imagine the dynamics at play. I also wondered about the women, who were sold by their parents, if they would see it as an opportunity for a better life or as sexual slavery? Another interesting point, The Harem was only served by eunuchs (for obvious reasons!) and they had living quarters as well.
I also enjoyed just wandering around the courtyards and rooms, trying to take in the grandiosity. We also toured through one display where you see all the weapons and armor that was used throughout the centuries and that was pretty interesting. In general, I was glad we went but as with all amazing sites, it was so crowded! And without saying too much, certain tourists with their shoving and their frenzy of snapping photos can drive anyone crazy. I saw a tourist lean over an elderly Turkish man, rest against his knee to his obvious discomfort, just to take a photo. I wonder if they even take a second to appreciate what they are seeing without looking through a lens?
Afterwards we went to see the amazing Aya Sofya, which was definitely my favorite site to see. Originally used as a church after being built in 537 AD, it was then conquered and converted into a mosque in 1453. It remained the largest church in history for over 1000 years! The history is phenomenal and it is so interesting to see components of Christianity and the Muslim religion in the same building. After it was conquered, the frescoes on the ceilings and walls were covered with plaster and this has now been removed. At one point on the ceiling, you can see a fresco of Jesus and the Virgin Mary and on either side of it are traditional Muslim markings. The contrast alone is fascinating and with the vastness of the building around it, just amazing.
One thing we discovered is that we really enjoyed Istanbul at night. Once the sun goes down, the atmosphere seems to be a little more relaxed with less touts, and the darkness creates a means to hide the somewhat less desirable buildings. We splurged and went out for a lovely dinner on a roof top terrace overlooking the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya, both of which are ridiculously charming when they are all lit up. We had such a nice romantic evening, and I think we both went to sleep feeling better about Istanbul.
The next day was unfortunately dedicated to errands first since we are flying to India next and I especially wanted to feel organized. We dedicated the morning to shipping and it was really a lot more stressful than we imagined. We also have no guarantees that things won't be broken so both of us are feeling a little more wary about the souvenirs we buy. This is not to say we won't shop in India of course!
We walked over to the area of Karakoy which we find to be slightly more relaxing than Sultanahmet. Sitting on the harbor having coffee was great for the people watching and for dinner we found fishermen who grill the fish right there by the seaside, put it on a bun with lettuce and onion for 5 TL! What a great way to experience seafood. Since it was shameful that we hadn't tried it, we found a woman who made her own Turkish Delight, soft sugary candies that are a hit in Turkey. I only wish we would have tried them before we shipped things home!
Without a doubt we would definitely come back to Turkey, and Istanbul as well despite the lack of a good first impression. The city really grew on us, and I think if you spend time in a different area of the city and take breaks from the touts and sightseeing, it would be really enjoyable. I really loved Turkey as a whole and would not hesitate to return. I have seen and done more amazing things during my time in Turkey than in my entire life. The hospitality of Turkish people is unrivaled by any other culture in my experience and I have met so many wonderful people.
Now we are off to India and I am feeling a mixture of excitement and anxiety. I think it is going to be an amazing adventure, full of inspiring moments and people but not without the realities of severe poverty, shocking noises, smells, and crowds, and the likeness of getting sick. We talked about India for so long (years, really!) that it is hard to imagine that in just three hours we will land in Delhi. Off we go! :)
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