We had such a wonderful last morning in Ubud that it was very difficult to leave. We did promise ourselves however that if we weren't enjoying the rest of Bali or Lombok as much that we would simply return at our leisure. The morning consisted of an early wake up (we crashed very fast because of our previous lack of sleep) and a morning coffee on our private patio, just taking in the views of the rice fields. After another superb breakfast, we decided to not only take in the views but to walk amongst the rice fields and we were so glad we did! We were wishing we had gone for that walk every morning it was so lovely.
Beyond the sheer beauty of the fields, it was really great to see people out and about tilling their fields and carting things on motorbikes that you wouldn't think possible (ie: a bamboo tree!) and to see all the nature with roosters stealing offerings, frogs jumping in our path, and ducks waddling from flooded field to field. We stumbled across the perfect cafe with wicker furniture right in the middle of the action and after being in the heat, we couldn't resist a stop for iced tea. Our time came to an end too quickly as we had arranged our driver for noon but we were also excited about what Munduk, a village in north Bali and surrounded by the mountains, would have to offer us.
Our drive to Munduk was very relaxing and luckily for us, we were able to stop for fried bananas on the way which gave us sustenance for the two and a half hour drive. The scenery kept getting more and more beautiful if that were possible and it literally started to feel like we were on top of the world, or at least the mountains. We stopped at a viewpoint overlooking two massive lakes that almost looked more inviting than the ocean!
As we pulled into Munduk, we could see how small the village was, merely a half kilometer long consisting of guesthouses and warungs exclusively with the odd local confectionary. It instantly felt authentic and with the gorgeous mountains in the background, we were very happy we made the trip. I think Bali is often mistaken for merely a beach vacation place but it is clear to me after our wonderful stay in Ubud, our trek up Gunung Batur, and discovering Munduk, that someone could have an incredible vacation in Bali without setting one foot on the beach!
We stayed in a lovely guesthouse where we could lay in bed and have a perfect view of the scenery out our patio door which made our stay rather romantic. Our evening was short but we strolled through the town saying "hello" to the waving children and answering numerous questions from the them because they wanted to practice their English. The Balinese have this charming thing where they often ask the same series of questions, "Where are you going? Where are you staying? Are you married? Do you have a baby?" and it is really not intrusive but just their culture. I particularly like the, "Where are you going?" question because it seems akin to, "How are you" in Canada and at first you might be wary to tell someone (especially coming from India where you might be walking into a scam) but we quickly got over that. Now I ask them where they are going!
We passed by this little warung with the sweetest elderly woman wearing the biggest smile and we couldn't resist supporting her. In truth we were on our way to another guesthouse that we heard had great food but seeing her little wooden warung overlooking the mountains inspired us to try something more authentic. If you could ignore the massive spider creeping down the side, the place was ridiculously charming and communicating was fun as she had no English and we had no Balinese so I had to write out our order and hope for the best. When our meals arrived it was clear that this was going to be the best food we have ever had in Bali and we have never had as good Mie Goreng or Capcay since! When we paid the bill with a generous tip she gave me a hug before sending us off! As our first introduction to Munduk, we were seriously enchanted.
Returning to our guesthouse, we were treated to the most spectacular view from our balcony containing a gorgeous pink sunset in contrast with an intense storm far off. I have never seen such impressive lightening, the kind that steaks the sky with massive lightening bolts every three minutes! It was really intense and exciting to see with the mountain backdrop. We were just happy we weren't in the middle of it!
We woke early in the morning and were out the door quickly since we only had the one full day for Munduk. Our itinerary sounded almost luxurious with a hike to a waterfall, a stop at a coffee plantation for authentic Balinese coffee and lunch, and a visit to some holy hot springs, purported to have healing powers. Our scooter was a little rough around the edges but we figured it would suffice. The trek to the waterfall was beautiful although a bit too easy as the path had been paved somewhat. When we arrived at the waterfall, we could hardly stand near it because it was so powerful it was blowing huge gusts of mist in our direction and we were getting more wet than if we had been in the rain! Although we enjoyed it very much, we skipped the other two waterfalls in favor of seeing other things and we went on our way.
Up the road was a coffee plantation that Lonely Planet had recommended and for once it did not lead us astray. We had a small tutorial on coffee and how it was roasted before we were served wonderful coffee while seated with beautiful scenery. We were both wearing shorts and t-shirts while one of the staff was wearing a huge parka that I probably wouldn't even wear for a Saskatchewan winter! We thought that was pretty cute. We almost tried a special kind of coffee called Kopi Luwak which uses beans harvested from the feces of cats after they have digested them to make a potent brew. Although it sounds a little off colour, it is the price of one cup (~ $12) that has put us off but we may try it before we leave. I am not sure who first thought of that idea!
With our stomachs full of delicious food, we headed off for our forty minute drive to the Banjar Hotsprings. The forty minutes easily turned into an hour and twenty minutes as we were consistently getting lost and literally being pointed in opposite directions by several people that were unable to speak English. We even had a map drawn out by our guesthouse with words in Balinese saying, "please help us find the intersection for Banjar Hotsprings" but it didn't seem to help. Just as we were about to give up though, we followed a hunch and by happenstance, we discovered the springs! At that point we were a little worried about finding our way home but we let our worries lay for a little while.
The Banjar Hotsprings were amazing! It was something we had read about online as being a worthy experience in Bali and I couldn't agree more. The natural pools are very warm with a high content of sulphur which people believe aids in healing many medical conditions. Beyond that, they have huge fountains with forceful water flowing out which offers a fairly therapeutic massage although there are some people who tend to occupy them for long periods of time. Although there were a few tourists it felt very local and I felt a little scandalous in my bikini top and shorts since most Balinese women swim in t-shirts. There was a couple in the springs that tugged on the heart strings as it was obvious that she was paralyzed and her husband kept floating her around the pool, dunking her often in a ritualistic sort of way while her legs stayed afloat with floatable knee pads. Healing properties aside, it felt wonderful and soothing to go for a warm soak in natural pools with the jungle all around especially as the day had been a bit wet and chilly.
Leaving the springs, our nervousness returned because we literally did not know how to get back to Munduk and our map was useless. Intuitively, we asked people at the first intersection but with no English all they could do was point and all we could do was trust. These people certainly weren't wrong, we ended up on a road to Munduk but we ended up on the most remote, broken, pot-holed filled road we had ever seen. We kept expecting it to get better but it consistently got worse to the point that we were sure we were going to blow a tire and we were out in the mountains with nothing around save a few houses here and there. Anyone we did see we asked again, "Munduk?" and they would point onwards. We had about an hour and a half before it was going to get dark but we were both really worried. Then to top it off, it started to rain really heavy! At this point we were on roads that cannot really be called roads which had such sharp ninety degree turns it was only a matter of time before something happened. Luckily I have an amazing driver for a hubby and as the back end of our scooter started to slide out, Josh was able to hold the bike steady and right it before we went down. Unfortunately in protecting us he sacrificed his foot which got caught on the ground and now has a vicious scrape on top and is very likely broken from the amount of swelling we are seeing.
With no time to spare, we had to truck on and eventually we came right out into Munduk which meant we definitely took the back roads way because before we had been on a lovely highway. Unfortunately Munduk was too small for any sort of clinic or pharmacy so all we could do was clean Josh's wound which I think was an awful experience for him and awful for me causing the pain! The next day we were in Padang Bai where Josh could be seen in a clinic and have his foot properly cleaned and bandaged which reassured us both. The biggest hardship is waiting for it to heal so that he can go in the ocean (he is not the idle sort!). We are hoping to try that tomorrow so fingers crossed but unfortunately I don't think surfing would be a good idea so we are likely not going to head to south Lombok anymore.
We have since moved on from Padang Bai but I will share those stories another day!
Beyond the sheer beauty of the fields, it was really great to see people out and about tilling their fields and carting things on motorbikes that you wouldn't think possible (ie: a bamboo tree!) and to see all the nature with roosters stealing offerings, frogs jumping in our path, and ducks waddling from flooded field to field. We stumbled across the perfect cafe with wicker furniture right in the middle of the action and after being in the heat, we couldn't resist a stop for iced tea. Our time came to an end too quickly as we had arranged our driver for noon but we were also excited about what Munduk, a village in north Bali and surrounded by the mountains, would have to offer us.
Our drive to Munduk was very relaxing and luckily for us, we were able to stop for fried bananas on the way which gave us sustenance for the two and a half hour drive. The scenery kept getting more and more beautiful if that were possible and it literally started to feel like we were on top of the world, or at least the mountains. We stopped at a viewpoint overlooking two massive lakes that almost looked more inviting than the ocean!
As we pulled into Munduk, we could see how small the village was, merely a half kilometer long consisting of guesthouses and warungs exclusively with the odd local confectionary. It instantly felt authentic and with the gorgeous mountains in the background, we were very happy we made the trip. I think Bali is often mistaken for merely a beach vacation place but it is clear to me after our wonderful stay in Ubud, our trek up Gunung Batur, and discovering Munduk, that someone could have an incredible vacation in Bali without setting one foot on the beach!
We stayed in a lovely guesthouse where we could lay in bed and have a perfect view of the scenery out our patio door which made our stay rather romantic. Our evening was short but we strolled through the town saying "hello" to the waving children and answering numerous questions from the them because they wanted to practice their English. The Balinese have this charming thing where they often ask the same series of questions, "Where are you going? Where are you staying? Are you married? Do you have a baby?" and it is really not intrusive but just their culture. I particularly like the, "Where are you going?" question because it seems akin to, "How are you" in Canada and at first you might be wary to tell someone (especially coming from India where you might be walking into a scam) but we quickly got over that. Now I ask them where they are going!
We passed by this little warung with the sweetest elderly woman wearing the biggest smile and we couldn't resist supporting her. In truth we were on our way to another guesthouse that we heard had great food but seeing her little wooden warung overlooking the mountains inspired us to try something more authentic. If you could ignore the massive spider creeping down the side, the place was ridiculously charming and communicating was fun as she had no English and we had no Balinese so I had to write out our order and hope for the best. When our meals arrived it was clear that this was going to be the best food we have ever had in Bali and we have never had as good Mie Goreng or Capcay since! When we paid the bill with a generous tip she gave me a hug before sending us off! As our first introduction to Munduk, we were seriously enchanted.
Returning to our guesthouse, we were treated to the most spectacular view from our balcony containing a gorgeous pink sunset in contrast with an intense storm far off. I have never seen such impressive lightening, the kind that steaks the sky with massive lightening bolts every three minutes! It was really intense and exciting to see with the mountain backdrop. We were just happy we weren't in the middle of it!
We woke early in the morning and were out the door quickly since we only had the one full day for Munduk. Our itinerary sounded almost luxurious with a hike to a waterfall, a stop at a coffee plantation for authentic Balinese coffee and lunch, and a visit to some holy hot springs, purported to have healing powers. Our scooter was a little rough around the edges but we figured it would suffice. The trek to the waterfall was beautiful although a bit too easy as the path had been paved somewhat. When we arrived at the waterfall, we could hardly stand near it because it was so powerful it was blowing huge gusts of mist in our direction and we were getting more wet than if we had been in the rain! Although we enjoyed it very much, we skipped the other two waterfalls in favor of seeing other things and we went on our way.
Up the road was a coffee plantation that Lonely Planet had recommended and for once it did not lead us astray. We had a small tutorial on coffee and how it was roasted before we were served wonderful coffee while seated with beautiful scenery. We were both wearing shorts and t-shirts while one of the staff was wearing a huge parka that I probably wouldn't even wear for a Saskatchewan winter! We thought that was pretty cute. We almost tried a special kind of coffee called Kopi Luwak which uses beans harvested from the feces of cats after they have digested them to make a potent brew. Although it sounds a little off colour, it is the price of one cup (~ $12) that has put us off but we may try it before we leave. I am not sure who first thought of that idea!
With our stomachs full of delicious food, we headed off for our forty minute drive to the Banjar Hotsprings. The forty minutes easily turned into an hour and twenty minutes as we were consistently getting lost and literally being pointed in opposite directions by several people that were unable to speak English. We even had a map drawn out by our guesthouse with words in Balinese saying, "please help us find the intersection for Banjar Hotsprings" but it didn't seem to help. Just as we were about to give up though, we followed a hunch and by happenstance, we discovered the springs! At that point we were a little worried about finding our way home but we let our worries lay for a little while.
The Banjar Hotsprings were amazing! It was something we had read about online as being a worthy experience in Bali and I couldn't agree more. The natural pools are very warm with a high content of sulphur which people believe aids in healing many medical conditions. Beyond that, they have huge fountains with forceful water flowing out which offers a fairly therapeutic massage although there are some people who tend to occupy them for long periods of time. Although there were a few tourists it felt very local and I felt a little scandalous in my bikini top and shorts since most Balinese women swim in t-shirts. There was a couple in the springs that tugged on the heart strings as it was obvious that she was paralyzed and her husband kept floating her around the pool, dunking her often in a ritualistic sort of way while her legs stayed afloat with floatable knee pads. Healing properties aside, it felt wonderful and soothing to go for a warm soak in natural pools with the jungle all around especially as the day had been a bit wet and chilly.
Leaving the springs, our nervousness returned because we literally did not know how to get back to Munduk and our map was useless. Intuitively, we asked people at the first intersection but with no English all they could do was point and all we could do was trust. These people certainly weren't wrong, we ended up on a road to Munduk but we ended up on the most remote, broken, pot-holed filled road we had ever seen. We kept expecting it to get better but it consistently got worse to the point that we were sure we were going to blow a tire and we were out in the mountains with nothing around save a few houses here and there. Anyone we did see we asked again, "Munduk?" and they would point onwards. We had about an hour and a half before it was going to get dark but we were both really worried. Then to top it off, it started to rain really heavy! At this point we were on roads that cannot really be called roads which had such sharp ninety degree turns it was only a matter of time before something happened. Luckily I have an amazing driver for a hubby and as the back end of our scooter started to slide out, Josh was able to hold the bike steady and right it before we went down. Unfortunately in protecting us he sacrificed his foot which got caught on the ground and now has a vicious scrape on top and is very likely broken from the amount of swelling we are seeing.
With no time to spare, we had to truck on and eventually we came right out into Munduk which meant we definitely took the back roads way because before we had been on a lovely highway. Unfortunately Munduk was too small for any sort of clinic or pharmacy so all we could do was clean Josh's wound which I think was an awful experience for him and awful for me causing the pain! The next day we were in Padang Bai where Josh could be seen in a clinic and have his foot properly cleaned and bandaged which reassured us both. The biggest hardship is waiting for it to heal so that he can go in the ocean (he is not the idle sort!). We are hoping to try that tomorrow so fingers crossed but unfortunately I don't think surfing would be a good idea so we are likely not going to head to south Lombok anymore.
We have since moved on from Padang Bai but I will share those stories another day!
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