Our plane transfer took us through Guayaquil on a long layover but we were majorly impressed by the fancy airport with spa like bathrooms and funky cafes playing dance mix music so the time passed quicker than we expected. Apparently this airport used to be the best in South America and it shows. We arrived to Cuenca late and were happy to discover that the airport is only 2km from the center so our taxi was only $1.50 (and yes, all taxis are on the meter here which makes transport less stressful).
We checked in to our outstanding accommodation, Forum Hotel ($50 per night including buffet breakfast) and were in awe of this spectacular colonial home converted into a hotel. The house itself could have been a museum with it's original architecture wherethe windows face the "courtyard" instead of outside and it's original large wooden doors. Only two blocks away from Plaza Calderon, this hotel put us right in the middle of the action and had us wondering if we might have preferred staying in the old town of Quito as well.
Although we arrived late we were hungry and it was fun to explore Cuenca at night (safe to do unlike Quito) with the cathedrals lit up brightly. We had a surprisingly hard time finding an eatery that was open (strange especially because Ecuadorians typically eat their dinner later in the evening) so we settled for a hotel restaurant in El Presidente although within minutes it was apparent that we didn't settle in the least. We were lead up to the top floor of the hotel and were treated with a 360 view of Cuenca which was simply spectacular! Then we tried the food (on the pricier side of ~$8 with tax and tip per meal) and we were glowing at each other as we tried eat bite. Since then every single meal in Cuenca has been outstanding and the foodie in me rejoiced since I had given up on having a culinary experience in Ecuador.
From the map we received from our hotel we set out early the next day to have a lazy walking day and to indulge in some delicious cafes we had been forewarned about.
Things to do in Cuenca:
1) Plaza Calderon
This square is absolutely charming and because it's a prominent feature, you are not likely to miss it. We enjoyed relaxing and watching people take pictures of cute St. Bernards and eat ice cream (Cuenca is famous for it's helados!). We were joined by some nice young women who needed to practice their English skills for a school project so we happily answered their questions and watched them chase down other English speakers after us.
2) New Cathedral (Catedral de Immaculata)
Located in Plaza Calderon, it's impossible to miss this imposing cathedral. Although it cannot be noted for its historical significance, (construction finished in 1975) it is interesting that they endeavoured to build a new cathedral in a style to make it look more weathered. To an uneducated eye like mine, I would have thought it to be much older. Definitely pay to climb up to the top for a wonderful view of the city and a particular view of the light blue domes that this cathedral is known for.
3) Old Cathedral (Del Sagrario)
Also in Plaza Calderon, this cathedral is quaint compared to its newer counterpart but the historical significance is much greater being built above Inca ruins and completed in 1557. Although it's definitely worth a peek, the museum type displays are uninspiring and a lot of work was currently going on while we toured it.
4) San Blas Plaza
This lovely square was a picturesque highlight for us with a lovely cathedral as a back drop. Apparently the area around this plaza used to be a bit low brow but has really changed in recent years, perhaps due to the expats living nearby. There are a few really cute cafes staggered around it and we had a spectacular tapas lunch at Jodoco. Here we enjoyed talking with a group of expats (there are over 5000 expats in Cuenca) and they explained their quality of life and how they pay $290 a month for a beautiful apartment. A few of them use student visas to stay in the country and attend Spanish lessons daily and others apply for residency but all of them agree that Ecuador gives them a quality of life impossible to find in their countries with their pensions. It's such a small world that one of these expats was the owner of the Nosegay flower shop on Broadway in Saskatoon that is now closed.
5) Museo de Modern Art
This museum is located in San Blas plaza but we had difficulty seeing it as it is closed on weekends. We eventually succeeded in seeing the museum on Monday and we enjoyed viewing the artwork. There were unexpected pieces that were abstract and more traditional pieces featuring beautiful landscapes. We were both really interested in a display that featured a video of a woman discussing contraceptive options on the street and showcasing every reaction she received. I'm not much of an art aficionado but I enjoyed the museum.
6) Market San Francisco
Close to Plaza Calderon and near the flower market is this cute artsy market featuring a lot of products from Otovalo. Since it seems unlikely we will have time for Otovalo, it was interesting and fun to check out some of their wares and I even bought an Alpaca sweater and blanket! The blanket takes up a lot of room in the backpack but it's so soft and cosy and 100% worth it! I would recommend this market because the people were very sweet and seemingly more willing to barter than other markets however keep in mind that Ecuador is not "cheap" persay and compared to other countries, the market prices can seem fairly high which has limited our purchases.
7) Museo de Prohibido Cultura
Josh had read about this quirky museum and had wanted to go instantly. It's a mishmash of grotesque artifacts with the setting of an old colonial home to make the experience more eery. We actually didn't plan to see it but had stumbled upon it during our river walk and with the entrance fee of only $1, it was worth a quick look. Apparently they have performances and events in the evening and I think that would make the experience more spooky and exciting!
8) Rio Tomebamba
There is a lovely river running through Cuenca essentially separating old town from new Cuenca and it's a lovely walk with the roaring river and paved pathways. We started at the end with the University of Cuenca and ended at the Pumapungo museum and that was the perfect length of time. Look out for Parque de las Madres (on the new side) which is a lovely spot to relax and there are nice eateries and cafes nearby.
9) Pumapungo museum
We went to this museum on Monday and unfortunately it was closed (thanks Lonely Planet for your inaccuracy) but we enjoyed walking the archeological grounds and reading the placards. The museum is spectacular apparently and we were disappointed to miss it but just walking the grounds was nice too as it was the most important military and religious site for the Inca empire in the north.
The landscape is incredible featuring over 230 native plants to the area and it's wonderful to wander through.
They also have a bird sanctuary where they rescue birds and try to rehabilitate them however most will never be able to return to the wild. We enjoyed meeting an adorable tucan who was an absolute charmer and lots of parrots.
10) Day trip to Gualaceo and Chordeleg
Having spent Sundays in Latin America and knowing that many sights would be closed we decided to take a day trip to the Sunday markets in some small, more noticeably indigenous towns. We discussed our options with our hotel who explained that we could rent a driver for $55 or take the bus for $0.80 each so that was a no brainer! We taxied to the bus terminal (near the airport) and we paid the bus diver directly instead of buying a ticket at a kiosk like we were directed, I think because the fee was so little. Have $0.10 ready to put into a slot to receive a ticket before going through a metal detector and simply ask around for the right bus. My understanding is that on Sundays the buses leave very frequently.
As with all bus trips it can be difficult to know when you have arrived and when to get off. It's best to sit near the driver if possible so that you can hear them call out and also watch street signs for yourself. For Gualaceo it should be about 40 minutes and you will pull into a bus terminal and most people will get off there.
Gualaceo the town feels like a huge bustling market with hundreds of small store fronts and the busyness was almost overwhelming with all the locals hurrying around with baskets overflowing with goods and produce. We were very confused initially as we sought out the market because we couldn't find it and we almost decided that the whole town might be the market. Everyone we asked didn't understand what we were looking for and there were no other tourists around to compare notes. Eventually we found a taxi driver who drove about 5 minutes uphill and we found the market! The confusion is that IT HAS MOVED and the resources online/Lonely Planet haven't been updated. Ask for the New Market (Mercado Nuevo) and your taxi should understand.
The market was interesting and fun to wander around! Anything and everything was available from traditional foods like cuy (guinea pig!) and clothing like patterned leggings or any style of shoe you could want although the sizes were often too small for either of us. I didn't go for the guinea pig but I did love the guava meringue, a whipped fruity dessert item served in an ice cream cone!
We taxied back to main plaza (a couple blocks up from the bus terminal) and seeing the square is worth a visit as it is very pretty and relaxed. There are also some restaurants nearby but there are millions of eateries in the market itself that are very inexpensive (for example ~ $0.30 for fresh squeezed juice). After that we headed to the bus terminal and bused over to Chordeleg, an adjacent town over more notorious for its silver jewelry.
Chordeleg was adorable and we enjoyed it more than Gualaceo as the market is all around the plaza and is much cuter and less hectic. You can also visit another town called Sigsig but we were satisfied after these two markets. I didn't end up buying any jewelry because I don't typically buy nicer pieces from a market as I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if the piece is authentic or not.
Overall we had a wonderful day trip and were happy we visited the markets. We also got a taste of indigenous culture and we really admired the women in particular with their traditional outfits, often longer colourful skirts, poncho style sweaters, and panama hats (a misnomer as they are "Ecuadorian"). Another good choice for a day trip would have been to go to Cajas national park but we were put out as we read that it could be extremely cold and difficult to hike without a guide.
Although we had a wonderful time in Cuenca we were definitely there too long at 4 nights. It's a beautiful city to wander the old town and go for cappuccinos but I think most of the best sights could be seen in a two day itinerary. We had difficulty seeing several things due to it first being the weekend and then with it being Monday and if our schedule was more flexible we would have avoided these days. We enjoyed Cuenca much more than Quito as it is more digestable than the Quito chaos despite also being a big city and it was a treat to tour around without a care in the world. Overall, a very laid back and charming city worth a visit on any itinerary.
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