Alausi- The Devil's Nose

Alausi is a cute little town that contains the notorious Nariz del Diablo (the Devil's Nose) train and this was our main reason for visiting there. We took a bus from Cuenca's bus terminal headed to Riobamba and were dropped off on the highway after about 4 hours (estimate about 4-5 hours depending on the road warrior aka bus driver you get).

It was difficult for us to decide if we were going to stop in Alausi since the train does not run on Mondays and this extended our stay in Cuenca as a result. We were nervous that we had altered our itinerary for this one attraction but the risk definitely paid off! After arriving in Alausi we realized that the town is quite picturesque and charming in itself with it's cobblestone streets and pastel coloured homes that create an old fashioned atmosphere. 

We didn't end up booking a hotel prior to arriving as a few we had emailed were quoting ~ $80! Upon arriving we sought out Hotel Gampala ($49 a night) and were able to secure an okay room that was clean, if not a little dated. Alausi was cold at night though which gave me a great excuse to break out my new Alpaca socks! 

The train ride transported us to another time although it has been restored in recent years and updated. The tracks were originally laid at the turn of the 20th century and were extremely dangerous between Alausi and Sibambe due to a 765 meter cliff of solid rock that had to be blown through with dynamite first. Thousands of lives were lost including Jamaican prisoners who were promised freedom upon the completion of the track. 

What's really unique about the train ride is that is unable to turn around and still utilizes an old fashioned method called a switch back where the train has to basically shimmy back and forth to switch train tracks. 

We woke up early the next day excited for the train ride. In Cuenca we decided to reserve tickets ahead of time although we debated if this was necessary or not. From some travellers we heard they missed the train because they didn't reserve ahead but the day we went the train was no where near full (but it was off season being February). It only leaves at 8am or 11am and occasionally at 3pm but rumour is that the earlier trip is often better as the clouds can roll in later obstructions the amazing view of the Andes mountains.

Reserving in Cuenca was a bit complicated and we started the process through our hostess who called on our behalf to arrange tickets. We had to then take the information she printed and go to a specific bank to deposit money. Not sure exactly what to do we waited in a long line for a teller who then turned us away because we did not fill out the deposit slip. These slips are available at a kiosk and since we paid cash we chose the "efectivo" slip (there are different options). The teller was able to take that information and gave us a voucher stating we had paid and we then provided the voucher to our hostess who printed off the tickets for us. As you can see the process was a bit tedious but because we were going solely for this train ride we didn't want to risk it and we were able to reserve on the right hand side which provides the best views. 

After arriving at the ticket office at 7:30am and showing our passports (don't forget them) we were on our way! The train was adorable and almost seemed like a quaint bus on wheels. We each had a window seat and were treated to outstanding views of daunting cliffs and beautiful rolling lush mountains. The scenery was so beautiful and worth the trip alone and then being on the train was a fun experience too! 

Each window opens and you can literally stick your head out so that the scenic experience is full on. In the past you were allowed to ride on the roof which must have been exceptional but the practice is no longer allowed due to a litany of injuries. Probably a good thing Josh wasn't allowed to do it! 

Arriving at the top offers a bit of a tacky tourist opportunity with traditional dancing and llamas but it also offers a view of the famous "Devil's Nose" which you can see with some imagination and a free snack. We enjoyed it more than we thought we would as we could view the scenery for hours it was so breathtaking. 

After the train ride we had a couple of hours to kill while we waited to catch a bus to Riobamba (leaving every hour and necessary to route through for most trips like ours to Banos) and we sought out the imposing statue of San Pedro. This huge tribute is impossible to miss and it was fun to climb the stairs up to the top and view the entire town after we caught our breath. 

Alausi is the sweetest, most quaint town and we were subject to its charms. The train was a very unique experience and especially because the weather was good, we had spectacular views of the Andes mountains. Thankfully, it was definitely worth the trip. Next stop, Banos!