We were excited about Granada as it has quite the reputation of being a beautiful, laid back city and it didn't disappoint. Uniquely, the city sits at the bottom of the Sierra Nevada mountains creating a dramatic landscape especially when viewing the famous Alhambra, which is the main draw in Granada.
I was disappointed with our Airbnb in Granada as it didn't have a living area to relax in once Thalia went to sleep and with unusually low temperatures and poor heating, it was very cold. But this gave us more motivation to stay out of the house and explore Granada! We kept Thalia out late most nights enjoying the free tapas that come with each drink. A caña (small beer) would cost 2 euros and a new and exciting tapa would appear making us try delicious nibbles from chorizo in red wine sauce (Josh's favourite) to meatballs in tomato sauce. Granada had us eating far more than we care to admit but we really got swept up in the evening tapa culture and had a great time.
Wandering the Albayzin neighbourhood in Granada is one of the top things to do. It is the old Moorish quarter in Granada and is named a world heritage site. Getting lost has never been so enjoyable with the labyrinth of alleyways and streets leading up a steep hill. Be prepared to exercise your lungs while climbing! Wandering is a bit of a treasure hunt exploring artisan shops and eateries while appreciating the old buildings that have been repurposed again and again.
In our travels we stumbled across the Mirador de San Nicolas, a beautiful lookout point for the one and only Alhambra. The views afforded by the unassuming plaza were stunning with the mountainous backsplash highlighting the imposing fortress. This was our first taste of the Alhambra and we enjoyed in awe, excited for our visit the next day. With Thalia we took it all in by daylight but had heard that many people dine nearby and enjoy a sunset view which sounds amazing. Swaying to the North African music and taking endless photos, we stayed longer than expected before making the trek down the steep hill.
The Alhambra is the most significant attraction in Granada and the most visited sight in all of Spain. It was the last stronghold of the Moorish empire and represents Islamic Spain so the historical significance is profound. During high season it receives 10,000 visitors a day which makes the Alhambra a more complicated sight to visit but it's certainly worth the effort.
We are always wary when there is so much hype surrounding an attraction and we visited with an unwilling skepticism. To start our tour we arrived bright and early and visited the Alcazaba, the fortress of the Alhambra and the oldest part with references of it appearing in the 9th century. Exploring the towers provided a spectacular view of Granada nestled in the mountains and we enjoyed seeing the outline of the soldiers' barracks.
Visiting the Nasrid Palaces was scheduled on our ticket so that only 300 people visit the palace at one time. After only a minute inside I could see that we were indeed somewhere special. The carvings, the symbols, the tilework, the arches, the lighting - everything spoke of another time and the feeling was surreal. These Kingly residences have exquisite detail that is surprisingly restored and even as we toured we could witness the ongoing restoration.
During our time in Spain we have seen some truly spectacular gardens and the Generalife can definitely be counted among them. It is one of the oldest surviving Moorish gardens and it contains the summer palace and country estate for the Kings. Wandering around the cobble stone pathways dotted with symbolic fountains and carefully orchestrated shrubbery proved to be the perfect way to spend the afternoon especially since the rain finally stopped. We both really enjoyed learning about the innovative irrigation system and seeing the handrails with water flowing down to the Alhambra.
Most importantly, tickets need to be purchased well in advance (at least 60 days) online prior to visiting. You need to choose whether you will visit in the morning or the afternoon and specifically when you will enter the Nasrid
Palace. With your specific time you must enter within 30 minutes or your access will be denied. This means in high season you may need to wait in line for 30-60 minutes prior to your entry! If you are in the morning group, they will not kick you out for the afternoon but your last ticket needs to be scanned before 2pm or you will be denied access. We chose to enter at the Justice Gate, tour the Alcazaba, see the less impressive Charles V palace, visit the Nasrid palaces, then enjoy the Generalife gardens and this system worked well for us.
We were unsure about whether we would enjoy another cathedral but seeing as we had lots of time we visited the Basilica de San Juan de Dios and we were so happy we did. Entry (5 euros) includes an impressive audio guide which makes the visit more rewarding. This cathedral was very different than the other ones we had seen and it was particularly interesting to compare the romantic Renaissance architecture of this one to the dark Gothic elements in Sevilla's cathedral. Building could not begin until after the Moorish empire fell (1492) which explains why this cathedral broke the mold of Gothic architecture and is unique. The Baroque altar was extremely eye catching; we could have stared at all the various elements for hours! Of course with miss Thalia who likes to be on the move our visit was probably an hour or so.
Attached to the cathedral is the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) which is not to be missed (entrance not included with cathedral ticket). The chapel is most noteworthy for the tombs of King and Queen Ferdinand and Isabella and their three children. Queen Isabella in particular is credited with uniting Spain and funding Christopher Columbus' expeditions discovering the "New World." Seeing the crypt where the coffins lay is really spectacular if not a bit eerie and appreciating their Royal objects like the crown and sceptre was interesting. Photos were not permitted.
Granada was a relaxed city, one that made it very comfortable to just cool the jets and soak up the atmosphere. We shopped more in the artisan markets than we had before, relished in the North African food and kept warm with fancy heaters at many tapa bars. We were attached to our laid back style but also looking forward to Marbella where Thalia would meet up with all of her grandparents!
No comments:
Post a Comment