This neighbourhood has a very artsy up
and coming vibe which we enjoyed and the 25 minute walk to the center past oodles of shops and cafes was engaging. Alameda de Hercules is a lively plaza with playgrounds, water park features, and endless patios to enjoy a caña (glass of beer) on. On Thursdays there is a large Antique Market on Feria Street we stumbled across and perused on our way to sight seeing.
On the top of our list to see was the Plaza de España. Built in 1929 for the Spanish-American exhibition, the plaza impresses with buildings in a huge half circle surrounded by moats and exquisite tile work.
Each province in Spain is represented in tiled alcoves and the overall impression is stunning with the well thought out light from the sun and the romantic canals invoking the feel of Venice. We fell in love with the spectacular plaza and actually visited twice as Thalia was fussy the first time and we could not fully appreciate it. Traveling with baby means rolling with the moods we are granted! It's hard to describe in words but this plaza is not to be missed.
Next we toured Parque de Maria Luisa which is connected to the Plaza de España and it was the most beautiful green space in Sevilla. The contrast between the lush, shady park to the brilliant and dazzling plaza was constructed intentionally and is simply gorgeous. We spent the better part of an afternoon getting lost amongst the palm trees, orange trees, and beautiful memorial fountains.
Another highlight was the Catedral de Sevilla, the largest gothic cathedral in the world and the third largest overall. Entering the cathedral was awe inspiring with the huge columns and expansive ceiling, it makes one feel so small amongst the powerfully built structure. With the knowledge that it was completed in the 16th century one can really appreciate the feat of man to create this in the hopes of becoming the world's largest cathedral.
Inside the cathedral is the Tomb of Christopher Columbus which was remarkable to view. Our interest was piqued about this Italian man who rests in Sevilla's Cathedral and upon further research we learned that he is not the man that pop culture purports him to be. He was supported by the Spanish monarchs to discover new trade routes to the Indies however he discovered a new continent and endeavored upon creating slave routes and genocide. His tyranny ended when he was arrested and dismissed as governor on Hispaniola in 1500.
Not to be missed is the Torre Giralda, the bell tower attached to the Cathedral. Originally a minaret, the architecture reflects Muslim and Christian aspects and it is really enjoyable to walk to the top. It has a ramp going up 34 floors instead of stairs which would have allowed donkeys to go up to the tower. Reaching the top was worth the lactic acid building in our calves!
The view was spectacular with the cathedral, the orange tree courtyard, and the scenes of the city below with the backdrop of stunning bells all around. We heard one ring and Thalia almost jumped out of the carrier! This is included in the ticket price to the cathedral.
That night we booked tickets online to the Real Alcázar which allowed us to bypass a long queue the next morning. We felt pretty badass with everyone staring us down! Before Thalia (BT as my Dad likes to call it) we would have been in that queue for sure but travelling with a baby has taught us that planning ahead and being organized is the key to success. And what a success it was!
The Real Alcázar is a fusion of moorish and christian architecture with the original fort being built in 900 and the palace completed in the 14th century. To this day it is still used by the royal family and although we did not get a chance to see the Royal rooms (need to book a tour in advance when you arrive) they are purported to be lavishly beautiful. Our eyes feasted on the intricate detail of the carvings and tilework all around and the stunning courtyards.
Then we explored the gardens! Each garden has clearly been painstakingly and artisticly planned out and the tranquil effect was such a pleasure. We spent more time in the gardens than in the palace and loved every minute of it. Truly one of the best things I have seen so far and I'm curious about seeing the famous Alhambra in Granada to compare and contrast.
Since we wanted to end our perfect day on a high note we decided to take a tip from our friend Maria and go to El Corte Inglés, a department store (very similar to The Bay in Canada) and go to the top floor for a drink and for a view of the city. The terrace was lively with friends and family enjoying tapas and the view of the Cathedral and Real Alcázar was gorgeous.
True to form, a lovely Spanish couple vacated their prized seat under a heater so that we could keep Thalia warm. We have enjoyed many examples of Spanish hospitality and especially with Thalia in tow we are treated very well. I have found it amusing though that Thalia is almost always referred to as a boy and I think it's because she doesn't have her ears pierced and because we are travelling she is rarely dressed up.
Travelling to Spain in November has it's pros (less tourists, low season prices) and cons and we were subjected to pretty gloomy weather the next day. Despite the rain we trekked to the Barrio Santa Cruz (Jewish quarter), a very charming neighbourhood with winding streets wanting for people to get lost.
This is the area that the Jewish people were concentrated in after the Muslim rule was conquered and they remained until they were expelled in 1492. Revitalization of the area in the 18th century (read: christianzation of synagogues etc.) created an upbeat neighbourhood that is now the touristic center it is today. We stopped at the Tourism information desk to get a small walking map to guide us and we enjoyed our afternoon however having been to Córdoba we could have skipped this if we didn't have as much time.
Leaving Sevilla was difficult. We had really settled in and enjoyed the big city vibe it offered along with it's memorable historical center. We also enjoyed more tapas than we had before but after learning Granada still serves free tapas with drinks that softened the blow a little bit.
Vamos a Granada!
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