We felt we ended our 5 days in Madrid not only having seen all the world class attractions it has to offer but we started to feel like we were getting more organized with Thalia and figuring out her sleep/eat schedule to fit with our sightseeing/beer and tapas schedule!
All of us we're feeling the groove!!
After the dizzying choose your own adventure system of taking trains in countries such as India catching the train from Madrid's Puerta de Atocha Station was a welcome breeze. It's a beautiful clean and modern station, with a tropical garden oasis inside and enough space to find a seat to do whatever a couple traveling with a baby may need.
Smiling staff did security checks and gave Thalia attention she loved. The power of family feels strong in Spain as even the most serious of professionals will take time to make faces at her.
We hopped on our train effortlessly and enjoyed our less than 2 hour ride through the beautiful Spanish countryside sipping on Cafe con Leche's and playing with Thalia.
We arrived to what can only be described as a walkers paradise. Little Córdoba (pop. 350,000) has everything you need focussed around its historical centre which includes the train station where we could have walked 15 minutes with our luggage to our Airbnb. However, with Thalia's extra gear and the fact that we're talking a winding plethora of mid evil streets, we would have never found it without the help of a taxi. (Beware, even Siri can be a bit confused here!)
Note: If you are staying in the Centro nothing should cost you more than 6€ in taxi fare from the train station.
Our Airbnb was lovely, nestled in the Centro near the Jewish Quarter our days have been like a dreamy novel.
With the looks on our faces as we wander Cordobas plazas and patios you would think we quit our jobs and decide to stay here!
Córdoba is famous for its "patios" which refer to the inner courtyards in the houses that line little gothic streets.
It is not unusual for owners to leave their street doors open and invite peeking tourists in for a glimpse of their pride and joy. We were lucky to have this experience with a kind owner.
Córdoba was a Muslim city until 1236 when it was retaken by Ferdinand III in the reconquista. Prior to this the Arab leader Al-Hakkam had made Córdoba a powerful centre for education and commerce as he built libraries, encouraged artisans and allowed Christians and Jews to co-exist peacefully. Nothing shows this better than the magnificent Cordoba Mosque/Cathedral, a highlight attraction in Córdoba. It was once shared half and half by Christians and Muslims.
Our Itinerary (recommended)
THE CÓRDOBA MOSQUE/CATHEDRAL
(Mezquita)
This place is a stunner. A mix combo of mosque and cathedral as it changed hands over 1300 years. Built in 711 AD and added on to over the centuries it's just a place you want to sit and contemplate forever. If you see one thing in Córdoba be it the Mezquita.
It's 8€ per person, and believe it or not you will spend at least an hour wandering around it admiring the hundreds of roman pillars amid floating double arches and decor of gold, silver, ivory, copper, marble,brass,jasper and porphyry highlighting the roof and arches.
This is a don't miss! It's not hard to find, all roads lead here (eventually!).
TIP: check it out a night too, the outside isn't overly impressive in the day but the haunting lights of night give it that extra mystique.
That fact that Christians and Muslims once shared this space in peace added to its beauty. So much we can learn from history, alas we don't seem to.
PATIOS VIANA
This is an example of early royal home ownership in Andalusia. This extraordinary house (mansion) with it's 12 patios (courtyards) just makes you want to stop, drop and drink a tea.
The stately Moorish influenced gardens are knock your socks off beautiful with an array of fountains, fauna and specific design. Orange trees mix with palm trees while bumping arms with colourful windows and walls lined with potted flowers of all kinds I can't name.
This place is a true delight and a baby friendly site. Thalia loved all the water fountains and there were ample places for her to crawl and take a break.
It's 5 € per person (under 10 free). You can do a tour of the house for 8€. (Only in Spanish)
ROMAN BRIDGE
This one is touted a main attraction. It may feel a bit underwhelming when you first see it but the kicker is IT WAS ORIGINALLY BUILT IN THE 1ST CENTURY BCE!! IKEA could learn from the Romans.
It's had some serious renos to keep it safe but the 14 and 15th arches are original. It's spans the Guadalquivir River and is pretty happening place to hang out and people watch with sweet views of the Mezquita on one side and Puerta de Puente on the other (giant Roman Gate).
MERCADO VICTORIA
This food market just across the Paseo de Victoria is a must see/must eat. Lots of space for Thalia including bench style seating where she could sit safely and play. Also a free trampoline for older kids.
All meals between 4€ and 10€. Not just Spanish eats but also a popular Indian restaurant that we did not personally get a chance to try but smelled excellent!
MUSEO DE INQUISICION
(Actually a torture museum)
Yes, we are parents of the year as we took our 10 month old to a torture museum! Fortunately she had no idea what she was looking at, we had wished we were her!
If you have time to kill this place is ok but not a must see. It's only 3€ and takes about 30 minutes to walk through as it educates you on how the soldiers of the Spanish Inquisition tortured poor victims on their various suspected indiscretions including intoxication, adultery or witchcraft. Most which were not even the case.
It exhibits the torture devices with explanations on how they were used.
90% gross, 10% mildly educational.
Again, have some time to kill knock yourself out, we found it ho-hum and are not fans of the Saw movies (coincidently it does display a saw!)
JEWISH QUARTER
Beautiful area that really comprises a large part of the old town Centro. You will be walking it and likely not realize it.
Gorgeous patios and Juliet balconies overflowing with flowers float above your head and cafes, shops and eateries dot the street. Definitely a highlight and all you need is your feet.
ALCAZAR DE LOS REYES CRISTIANOS
This magnificent edifice with even more impressive gardens was originally constructed in 1328 and was not only a fortress for Ferdinand II in the early mid evil times but a tribunal during the Spanish Inquisition (with torture chambers) and a prison for enemies of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1810.
It's worn many hats but the grounds today are a peaceful backlash to its bumpy history.
With greenery galore, soothing fountains and two towers offering stunning views of Córdoba it's definetely worth the 4.50€ visit.
We spent 2 hours perusing the fortress, towers and gardens and even had a picnic. Highly recommend this gem.
OTHER TIPS:
- Supermercado Dia is a great place to get groceries in the Centro. Closed Sundays. Corner of Sevilla and Malaga.
- Check out Plaza de las Tendillas. Yummy food market, good cheese and sweets. Close to anywhere in the Centro
- Cafe Y Te is very baby friendly, lots of seating and friendly staff, found this in all locations throughout spain including Córdoba.
- Remember many attractions close Mondays but the Cathedral (Mezquita) is open.
Time to grab a Cafe con Leche and get lost in the streets!
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